Off the Grind

China has denied reports that it will ban Everest expeditions via Tibet in early May, when the Olympic torch is due to scale the world’s highest peak. “We have never published such an announcement and we will accept all expeditions, whether Chinese or foreign,” said an official from the China Tibet Mountaineering Association………..Earlier this week Chinese officials sent out a memo to climbers wanting to attempt Mt. Everest this season. That memo effectively shut down any prospects of teams trying to summit from the northern Tibetan side of Mt. Everest. Today Nepal has followed suit with their own restrictions. (After a handsome bribe from China.)

On May 17 we climbed 3 more quality pitches to land on the cat walk. We then rappelled 1700 feet to the ground got in the car and drove back to Montana. Pat Wolf, Dana Drummond (YOSAR), Whit Magro, and myself seiged a new route up a proud line on Middle Cathedral. In good Russian style, we spent 5 days and paved the route with fixed lines until we had no more. 1,200 feet in all. With crucial support from the search and rescue team, we fixed pins and bolts at each anchor making for a safe comfortable route. Most of the pitches go at 5.10 with great protection. 2 of them however loom ominously. The skull fuck chimneys, pitches 8 & 9 provide 200+ feet of right leaning, overhanging flared squeeze chimney. Complete with 4 seperate birthings and reentries, you receive everybit of 5.11 you can stand. One high step bolt to a hook after that, and you can free climb the last three pitches at 5.9 wandering, but really good.

Deep in the heart of Yosemite Valley where the best and the worst of dirtbag culture lives on in a time capsule. Hanging out in Camp 4 is like being the 30 year old guy in dazed and confused. When you set out for a day of vertical gain though, it might be better to be a little seasoned. On a road trip to climb in “the valley” or “the ditch” as it is affectionately known, we stopped for a couple of days at Calaveras Dome.

this is a test, only a test. If it were indeed an emergency, the signal would be followed by directions to keep you kicking.