Off the Grind

The Tour de France ain’t the only show in town!

June 17th, 2008 by mountaincow

While the media fools many Americans into thinking the Tour de France is the only bike race worth paying attention to, there are countless road bike races, not to mention mountain bikes races that happen all over the world. The three most famous road bike “stage races” which comprise the elite circuit of “Grand Tours” are the Tour de France, Italy’s Giro d’Italia, and Spain’s Vuelta a España. Also, the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI), while not a host of the Grand Tours, commissions hundreds of stage and one-day races in their ProTour continental circuits, including tours in Africa, America, Asia, Europe, and Oceania.

Since biking is popular in Switzerland, it is no surprise that the Tour de Suisse is one of the most popular of the UCI ProTour. The Tour de Suisse is a nine-day stage race covering some of the steepest mountain passes Switzerland has to offer. Although the website is only in French or German, it’s pretty cool. On June 15th, we had a chance to see it live, as the racers whizzed though our neighborhood.

From our viewing spot, near kilometer 120 out of 197, one racer, Martin Elmiger, was about 15 minutes ahead of the rest of the racers, who were pretty much all in the peloton (a fancy term for the biggest pack of racers in a race). I was impressed. The reason the peloton forms is so that racers can rest by drafting off one another, while still maintaining a competitive speed. The overall effect of the drafting is huge, making the peloton very fast and efficient. To me it seemed amazing that one guy could be riding alone and winning by such a large margin, without the benefit of drafting. I was sure he must be an amazing racer who would sweep the Tour de Suisse.

The conclusion of the race turned out differently. Somewhere between kilometer 185 and 190, Elmiger, who had led the pack by so much for so long, was swallowed by the peloton and ended up 155th out of 158 riders. Poor guy. He might as well have just hung back with the peloton, getting lots of rests, but instead he cranked the whole race, only to all but completely lose it in the end. I guess sometimes that’s life!

http://www.tds.ch/tourdesuisse/index.html

Footage from the 2008 Tour de Suisse

“The Alhambra” or “18 Pitches to Marital Bliss” by Katie

June 9th, 2008 by mountaincow

“The Alhambra” or “18 Pitches to Marital Bliss” by Katie, in honor of our one-year anniversary (almost)

Climbing is like marriage, sort of. When you tie yourself to another person, putting their life in your hands and your life into theirs, it’s a bit like saying “’til death do us part.” Long climbs seem even more like marriage, because you add the act of commitment. Not only are you agreeing to be responsible for your partner, you’re agreeing to do it for some period of time, through challenging and intimidating situations.

The Alhambra is a 600-meter, 18-pitch, bolted rock climb in Ticino, Switzerland. It is a mostly moderate route; the hardest pitch is 6b+ (5.10d), and most are much easier. It has a half-hour approach, afternoon sun, and is good quality rock. Despite the number of pitches, it can be done easily in one day. It is a very popular climb and a good place to test your relationship with your (climbing) partner. In April, Tim and I tackled this giant, and learned a little about our marriage at the same time!

We arrived at the base at 8am with lively spirits and brimming with anticipation. This was a little different from our first day of marriage when we were so exhausted from the wedding that we could hardly decide how to spend the day. But the excitement of something new was similar.

The first three pitches are easy climbing: 5.5-ish. Tim began climbing, saying, “When the rope runs out, just start climbing.” I agreed, simul-climbing is a great way to move quickly. So, like our honeymoon, the beginning of the Alhambra was easy and enjoyable: pure pleasure.

Pitch 4, my turn to lead and the first challenging pitch: a slabby 6a+. I was a little scared, but Tim was patient and supportive. This challenge is like the first quarrel of the marriage when we had the energy to persevere. The successful outcome of this challenge was exhilarating: not only had I led a difficult pitch, we were already done with four pitches, in only one hour on the rock!

Tim led the next two pitches, to set us up for swapping leads for the rest of the climb. The Alhambra is nice for a team of one strong leader and one not-so-strong leader, because it pretty much follows the “one easy, one hard,” pattern. Just like a cooperative married couple, climbing partners who swap leads are efficient and reach their goals effectively. With the new system, pitches 5, 6, and 7 flew by. We were comfortable with the system, the climbing, scenery, and company were all enjoyable. This seemed like the first few months of our marriage: honeymoon is over, but marital bliss still lingers.

During pitches 8 and 9 of the Alhambra the rock transitions from a wide open slab wall, to steeper, blocky rock. Tim was happy to be off the slab and led comfortably and confidently though the steepest part. I had a tougher time, struggling a bit with the rock transition, but managed to muster up the strength to deal with the new challenge. At the top of that pitch, Tim was getting more excited for the new climbing ahead, and I was starting to doubt my abilities. Just like in daily life, people get pleasure and pain from different experiences: we have to learn to cooperate, even when we have different tastes.

After the transition off the grey whale of slab below, Pitches 10 and 11 became even steeper and a bit awkward. Tim used his strength to work out the crux of pitch 10 and I followed, fearful of the difficulty and the pressure to keep going. As I led pitch 11, I was pushed to the limit of my climbing ability and mental composure. I knew that I had to keep climbing but the difficulty and exposure of the pitch was taxing. By now, Tim’s patience was waning and he offered little support. So, I climb this challenging pitch without emotional support from my husband. I didn’t climb it clean, but I did make it to the top.

When Tim reached the top of pitch 11, he commended me for leading such a hard pitch. I heard him, but was exhausted and had already succumbed to my fears. In everyday life, we are challenged with things we must face by ourselves. In marriage, you have to learn when to rely on your partner, and when to rely of yourself. Sometimes these situations are exhausting, but success is sweet.

The remaining seven pitches seemed steep and daunting as my exhaustion from the first 11 settled in. A rest on a large grassy ledge and a short walk to the base of pitch 12 gave us time to communicate. Tim knew I was tired, but always has trouble understanding my fear of exposure, and why I can’t control it. But, just like in marriage, you have to try. You might not understand how your partner is feeling, or why they feel that way, but as their spouse, you can at least try to help. Tim’s patience was tested but he offered some hasty support and then started climbing again. He agreed to lead the next two pitches to give me a rest from leading, and help me relax.

The plan worked. Pitches 12 and 13 were very challenging, but I was able to enjoy them, knowing my husband is strong and reliable. As we progressed though these difficult climbs, I even impressed myself with my strength and ability. My mood changed rapidly. Everyone needs a little confidence. Sometimes, it is best to just keep working on something until it happens. Tim did his best to keep the rope tight, giving me assurance that he’d catch me if I fell. It’s amazing what a little reassurance will do for confidence: just like paying your wife a compliment.

We persevered through the remaining pitches and true to the climb the easy pitches were very easy and the hard ones were enjoyably challenging. Tim was strong and calm about the climbing, and while I started each pitch timidly, I always made it. Together we eased through these pitches to the top. Similar to the challenges we are facing now (you know, living in a foreign country), we hope to work through the moves by supporting each other.

Here’s what marital bliss looks like!

Warp Tunnel

June 1st, 2008 by mountaincow

The warp tunnel was 10 kilometers long followed by some cork screw turns, occasionally popping out of the tunnel to view a church perched on a hill, first from above, then at eye level, then from below. The train rolled to a stop at the station, Airolo. (Photo: Warp tunnel?)

In Montana you can drive for hours, knee on the wheel, watching the scenery go by, and when you stop and get out everyone is still speaking the same language, American! See, as we entered the warp tunnel everyone spoke a funny version of German called Swiss German (Schwiizertüütsch), as we emerged from the warp tunnel everyone was speaking Italian. And this is despite being in the same tiny country.

Officially, Switzerland has four languages: French, Italian, Swiss German and Rhaeto-Romanic. Of the four languages about 70% of the 7.5 million people speak Swiss German. The drainages running south into Italy have Italian-speaking inhabitants, and those draining west toward France are French-speaking. About 40,000 people from the most remote, interior, and isolated canton of Switzerland, Graubünden, speak Rhaeto-Romanic. (Photo: Church on a hill Graubunden)
What we here from people who speak French and Italian is that in Switzerland these two languages are mostly understandable by Italians and French. That is not at all the case for Swiss German. The difference from German is so great that when Swiss Germans are put on German television, they often put subtitles underneath so viewers can understand the Swiss.

In recent history the steep, narrow, valleys and rugged terrain meant that villages were isolated, and until the 1800’s many villages were only accessible by foot path. The steep topography and difficultly in moving from one valley to another resulted in a huge number of dialects. Many words relating to agriculture tools, or plants, and descriptions of topography are different among valleys. It is often the case that people from neighboring valleys have trouble understanding each other’s dialects. Swiss German itself is an Aleman form of German rooted in an old version of Middle-High German spoken between 1000 and 1300 A.D, which found refuge in the less accessible areas of the German speaking world. (Photo: Narrow Valley)

Rhaeto-Romanic is an even starker example of isolation. This language has its origins in Raetia, an alpine province of the Roman Empire, a name derived from the Celtic word rait meaning mountain land. It was inhabited by Celtic peoples before the Great Migrations that pushed the Celts into Britain and Ireland. The Roman armies invaded in about 180 B.C. and took over the Alps, and the inhabitants assimilated the vulgar form Latin spoken by the Roman armies. Today the Rhaeto-Romanic language is the closest example of spoken Latin, but also has traces of Celtic languages. Within Switzerland, Rhaeto-Romanic has four different dialects, created by isolation of the language in different mountain valleys. (Photo: Traditional Building Graubunden)

Today, with the invention of modern warp tunnels, telecommunication, and globalization Swiss isolation has been removed. Today, the once isolated mountain country is involved in international tourism, international banking, and mass migration of a global culture. In some respects the Swiss are terrified to lose their isolated cultures, and identities. They have fear of foreigners, manifested in a referendum to be voted on in June, reducing the number of foreigners to be given Swiss passports. (Photo: Stop immigration!) Yet at the same time, they take in cultural ideas from around the world. Maybe isolation just can’t cover up your redneck! (Photo: Rednecks are everywhere!)

Now, for the video…

“Please excuse the rambling”

Fancy Walking

May 4th, 2008 by mountaincow

Doing that Fancy Walk

Shortly after we arrived here, we heard an advertisement on TV saying something to the effect of, “Feeling depressed? A little over weight? Then go for a walk! One in every five Swiss persons is overweight.” The simplicity of the ad struck us. After a few months we recognized the Swiss gusto for walking. We do a fair amount of walking ourselves, so we’ve had time to reflect on it! (Photo: Always uphill?)

In Switzerland, walking comes in all shapes and sizes: everyday walking, country walking, Nordic walking, and hiking, not to mention snow walking (yes, snow walking) and snow shoeing. The various types of walking are enjoyed by everyone, not just the young, athletic types. In fact, it’s not uncommon to see the oldest of the old with walkers and canes inching along at a geologic pace.

Everyday walking is how you get to the bus stop, to go shopping, or to visit a neighbor. Most Swiss would not actually recognize everyday walking as an activity or sport, but because we partake in a great deal of this walking, and it far exceeds American standards of everyday walking, we deem it exercise.(Photo: Wandering Wanderweg) For us, an outing to the nearby town for a few groceries includes over a mile of walking; quarter mile to the bus stop, quarter mile to the grocery store, and then the return. If we actually need diverse supplies and have to find the store that sells such items we are likely to walk at least a few miles. Really, it’s every woman’s dream; shopping equals exercise. In Switzerland, you would never drive into town to park at each store, run in and out, and jump back into the car on the way another store. Driving is too much of a pain, small streets, nowhere to park, and wherever you park, you have to pay.
Country walking, or similarly, Sunday strolling, is popular in our neighborhood, because we live in the country. On sunny weekends, lots of people actually ride the train from Zurich just to walk around the countryside. For us, this type of walking usually involves a few hours of strolling around a small lake, or along a hilltop. Sometimes all of Switzerland seems like a park for strolling. There are established routes along trails and small roads, an unbelievable interconnected trail system. (Photo: Follow the yellow-brick road? ) The whole country is connected with labeled yellow signs telling you how many hours it takes to get to nearby towns, mountains, and huts. You could stroll from our house into Zurich in five and half hours. (Photo: Only 2 more hours to Gottschalkenberg!) But, country walking and everyday walking should not be confused. Country walking trails are quite hilly and meander, to say the least. Using these trails to reach a destination can lead to many wasted hours and sore feet.

The extreme of fancy walking is Nordic walking, where you carry poles and walk like you are classic cross-country skiing. (Photo: Nordic walking for everyone) This style of walking is all the rage in Europe and there are whole lines of shoes produced by every major brand. We‘ve not tried it yet, and probably won’t bother, might as well just slow jog. On the weekends the trains are packed with people and their poles, heading out to the country for a walk.

Once summer sets in, the “Alps,” Swiss German for “alpine meadows,” will open up trails connecting huts, alpine valleys, and peaks. Cows, sheep, and goats are usually grazed in the Alps and managed by local farmers. You can find milk fresh from the cow, cheese made on site, and an entire cuisine, all served for a price. You might even find Heidi, a character made famous by a series of Swiss novels written in the late 1800’s. But as the pop song here goes “Heidi’s dead”, we will explain that later.

Check out our latest video:

Fancy walking con un lobo!

Salaam Alaikum

April 23rd, 2008 by mountaincow

I have safely returned from my adventure in Morocco. What an AMAZING place! I now see that as an American, I had an ingrained sense of fear with regard to the Arabic and Islamic world, which made my anticipation of this trip great. But, I can safely say that this fear is unnecessary and only due to ignorance, inexperience, and media. As I said before I left, I was lucky to have an experienced ‘guide’ and friend, Cloe. She was invaluable to me for getting around, as well as gaining an understanding of the native cultures.Marrakesh - the Red City

 

I flew into Marrakesh, which is a little dirty and has its share of sleazy people, but, show me a US or European city that couldn’t be described the same way. As with any city, after a few days, I wanted OUT.

End of the Rainbow

 

Once away from the city, Morocco became so comfortable. After riding in three vehicles (an entire day journey) and hiking three hours (the next morning), we arrived at our destination: Taghia. Taghia is a village of 400 people, three hours by foot from the closest road, market, etc. The village is regarded as blessed by Allah and the local prophet because it has a fresh water source. To rock climbers, it is blessed with hundreds of six-hundred-foot (and more) limestone walls.

A Little Scary…

 

For Cloe, Taghia is like home away from home, and the people who own the guest house clearly regard her as a sister. I was lucky to see this intimate relationship and be welcomed into it as her friend. The way that every villager recognizes her and wants to speak with her is something few other tourists experience!

Fatima and Saadia

Of course, we were also there for the rock climbing, and it was challenging. But, Cloe and I were ready for the test of independence from our super-climber-husbands. We made a great team and both pushed our abilities just enough!

 

I am already scheming our next trip, because now I have to share the experience with Tim!

Taghia from Above

Bis Salaam!

 

Katie

 

The bear forgot to pack his lunch

April 16th, 2008 by mountaincow

It a recent post we talked about bears and wolves in Switzerland.

Well one of the only Swiss bears forgot to pack his lunch

http://www.admin.ch/br/aktuell/00091/index.html?lang=en&msg-id=18286

The Swiss show an incredible inability and intolerance to adapt to living with wildlife, maybe they have become an old and rigid society. Like some crotchety bitter old man who refuses to have sympathy and adapt to modern life. Yet they pretend to be so environmentally conscious.

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